Its been awhile since I have last written, seems that I have been climbing more than I have been writing again :). Its been a wild ride since my last post. I have put up two first ascents with a dirtbag named Ball in Queen Creek Canyon, specifically at Gods Head North. The lines go at 5.9, and 5.11c both trad routes amongst some hairy dirty, choosy rock. I think with a few repeats of the lines, and possibly some cleaning of loose rock the lines would be classics. The 5.11c Jam of Doom follows an overhanging boulder on top of Gods Head through a flaring finger/hand crack for about 35 feet. You have to climb one of the other routes on Gods Head to reach it. The boulder sits high above the canyon and gives you a great exposed feeling. The route beta can be found on Mountainproject.com in the refuge section of Queen Creek.
Upon returning from Arizona, friends and I started to climb at a place called Eagle Falls. Eagle is a 100 foot cliff face that stands promptly above a raging river that contains many water falls that one can jump into and take a nice cool soak after a hard days climbing. What more could you ask for on a hot summer climbing day? The best part about Eagle Falls is the potential for new routes is everywhere! and they all go on gear! Needless to say it wasn't long until I found a line that looked promising, or so I thought from the ground.
The line of choice looked like it followed a hand/finger crack that went straight up for about 40 feet and then trended left eventually opening up to a small corner. I racked up and set off, the first 10 feet weren't bad maybe 5.8-5.9 I had solid gear in and continued upward. When i reached the base of the "crack" I learned that the perfect hand crack that looked promising from the ground was nothing more than a wide flaring open book. I began to sort of freak out at this point because I was already pumped due to not warming up at all. From the ground it looked like an easy warm up route for the day, I was wrong; I placed a yellow camalot and began climbing higher. the climbing began to get harder now and I was getting more pumped…but when in doubt run it out (right?) Wrong. I kept climbing and soon found my self holding onto two slopers, and standing on minuscule dimes. I looked up, no gear, no possible way (i thought) I could make it up any higher. I looked down, I was twenty feet above that yellow camalot that was placed very peculiar. Would it hold a fall? I looked back at what I just climbed up there was no way i could back track down to the cam. Inevitably the shakes came and soon I was swearing my head off in fear… then I fell. Falling 40 feet, I flipped upside down because of the rope behind my foot (Stupid!) I landed 8" from the ledge at the beginning of the climb. I opened my eyes and saw my good friend and belayer Andy smiling with excitement of my fall. In my mind I was thankful for the cam holding.
I was glad that I had survived one of the sketches climbs of my life. After recuperating at the base I pondered the idea of it the line ends and is impossible to climb, or if I was just scared and couldn't let my mind open to the opportunities that were in front of me. So I walked to the top of cliff and through down a TR. After retrieving the gear, I tried to find a way up this giant. Eventually I saw a possible way that involved big throws to tiny side pulls, technical feet and committing moves. I top roped it clean a few times and am psyched to get back and check out more gear options. On top rope the climb felt like hard 11 maybe easy 12. if i had to put a grade on it now, I would say 5.12a R. I have plans to go back and snag it on lead before leaving for Arizona in two weeks.
This experience taught me a lot of things, first and foremost never expect anything to be easy, and always make sure you are doing things right. I was to caught up in fear and my internal dialogue that I didn't notice the rope behind my foot before I fell. I had ample time to switch my feet before I took the fall and could have prevented it. Sometimes you really need to just say "Stop!" take a deep breathe and see things from a far, take your self out of your body and see things in a third person perspective, analyze and decide everything from this position.
Upon returning from Arizona, friends and I started to climb at a place called Eagle Falls. Eagle is a 100 foot cliff face that stands promptly above a raging river that contains many water falls that one can jump into and take a nice cool soak after a hard days climbing. What more could you ask for on a hot summer climbing day? The best part about Eagle Falls is the potential for new routes is everywhere! and they all go on gear! Needless to say it wasn't long until I found a line that looked promising, or so I thought from the ground.
I was glad that I had survived one of the sketches climbs of my life. After recuperating at the base I pondered the idea of it the line ends and is impossible to climb, or if I was just scared and couldn't let my mind open to the opportunities that were in front of me. So I walked to the top of cliff and through down a TR. After retrieving the gear, I tried to find a way up this giant. Eventually I saw a possible way that involved big throws to tiny side pulls, technical feet and committing moves. I top roped it clean a few times and am psyched to get back and check out more gear options. On top rope the climb felt like hard 11 maybe easy 12. if i had to put a grade on it now, I would say 5.12a R. I have plans to go back and snag it on lead before leaving for Arizona in two weeks.
This experience taught me a lot of things, first and foremost never expect anything to be easy, and always make sure you are doing things right. I was to caught up in fear and my internal dialogue that I didn't notice the rope behind my foot before I fell. I had ample time to switch my feet before I took the fall and could have prevented it. Sometimes you really need to just say "Stop!" take a deep breathe and see things from a far, take your self out of your body and see things in a third person perspective, analyze and decide everything from this position.
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